"Radiant Heating Solutions"

F.A.Q.

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Q.) What Panel(s) do I need?

 

A.) Refer to the "Choosing A System" section to see what panel you need. If you still aren't sure, give us a call at 763-331-3066 and we will assist you.

 

 

Q.) What should my pressure be?

 

A.) Between 18 and 25 PSI. When the system calls for heat and your pumps turn on, you should see about a 5-7 PSI differential on your return gauge.

 

 

Q.) What temperature should by boiler be?

 

A.) For tubing in concrete, you should never set your water deliver temperature past 130° F, or you risk damaging the concrete. Generally, between 110°-115° is a great start point temperature setting for tubing in concrete. For other emitter types that require a much greater water delivery temperature such as Baseboard, Radiators, or Staple Up; these emitters can range from 145° up to 180°.

 

 

Q.) What size of boiler do I need?

 

A.) You should always conduct a BTU heat loss before choosing your boiler. For more information on which boiler size you need, or what Boiler BTU Outputs are, refer to the -Choosing A System- section, or our -Boiler Section-. You can also give us a call at 763-331-3066.

 

 

Q.) What is the difference between low temp and high temp panels?

 

A.) Emitters require different water deliver temperatures. For Tubing In Concrete, this is always under 130° F. For Baseboard, Radiators, Staple Up, or other "High Temp" Emitters, this is much higher. Our low temp panels feature a clear y-strainer which is only rated for "low temp" water. Our high temp panels have brass y-strainers and can withstand much hotter water delivery temperatures. If you have Tubing In Concrete Emitters you should use a low temp panel, although a high temp panel will still work with the system. If you have a High Temp Emitter, such as Baseboard, Radiator, Staple Up, etc., you MUST use a High Temp Panel.

 

 

Q.) What size of pump do I need to fill the system?

 

A.) You will need at least a 1/2 HP transfer pump to fill and pressurize your system. Your system pressure should range between 18-25 PSI. Anything less than a 1/2 Transfer Pump will not get you up to the required pressure. Note: Sump Pumps will not work for filling the system nor will they get up to the required pressure needed.

 

 

Q.) What is a zone?

 

A.) A zone is a thermostatically controlled area. The number of zones you have would depend on the number of thermostats you want. If you have 1 Thermostat, you would need a 1 Zone System, if you wanted 2 Thermostats, you would need a 2 Zone System, etc. Zones are made up of a series of loops.

 

 

Q.) What is a loop?

 

A.) Loop(s) are what make up a zone. Typically, loops are each line of PEX tubing that is connected to your manifold. (This may be termed differently if you are using baseboard, or radiators but the same theory applies.) You may have multiple loops for one zone, and multiple zones for your system. When doing tubing in concrete, you should always have a minimum of three loops. This will help to prevent short cycling. You should also keep your loop lengths under 300 ft. each. (1/2" PEX).

 

 

Q.) Are zones and loops the same thing?

 

A.) No, zones are based of the number of thermostats you have, loops are how many runs of Pex tubing you have. You may have a varying number of loops for each zone. For example, a 1 Zone System may have 8 loops of tubing in the concrete, or 2 Zone System, may have 1 zone with 5 loops, and the 2nd zone with 6 loops, etc. You want a minimum of 3 loops per zone, even if you have to cut them down in size. This will help to prevent short cycling of the boiler and allow a better transfer of heat. You always want to make sure that none of your loops are over 300 ft. in length (This may change depending on pex diameter and spacing).

 

 

Q.) How much propylene glycol should I use?

 

A.) Generally, a 50/50 mixture is sufficient. You do not want to mix over 50/50 as this can cause issues with your system. You can calculate the amount of glycol you need in your system by figuring out the size of tubing you have and what your total length of tubing is. For example, 1/2" Tubing equates to approximately 1 Gallon of fluid for every 100 lineal feet of tubing. So, if you had a total of 1200 feet of tubing (4 loops at 300 ft. each), you would take 1200/100 = 12. 12 is the total number of gallons you will need to fill your system. Since the glycol is mixed 50/50 or less that 50/50, you would take 12/2 = 6. 6 is the number of gallons of glycol you would need. 6 is also how many gallons of water you would need since its a 50/50 mixture. We recommend using Cryo-Tek 100.

 

 

Q.) Can I fill my system with my well or tap water?

 

A.) Technically....yes...but, we DO NOT recommend it. We never know what type of water quality each customer has. We recommended buying distilled water. Think of it as cheap insurance. You can spend a few dollars on a couple gallons of water, knowing that its clean and will not cause any issues down the road.

 

 

Q.) What type of Pex should I use and what size?

 

A.) You want to make sure your Pex Tubing is Oxygen Barrier Pex. Using Non-Oxygen Barrier Pex will cause a lot of issues with your system. As far as size and length of tubing, this can vary depending on the square footage you are trying to heat. The most common tubing size is probably 1/2" Tubing  with 12" spacing on center. (Keep loop lengths under 300 ft.) But again, this can vary depending on a number of factors.

 

 

Q.) Can I use the 'Combi' panel by itself to heat my domestic water?

 

A.) No, Combi panels are to be used in conjunction with hydro smart space heating panels. For other domestic hot water options, refer to the Westinghouse Boiler and our HSPS150 Series Panels.

 

 

Q.) My boiler is making a noise/vibrating sound, what is it?

 

A.) There are three things that usually cause the boiler to make a noise/vibrating sound. First, there could be an excessive amount of air in the system from the initial purge and fill process, run through the fill, purge, pressurize process again, and ensure you get all of the air out of the system. Second, if your glycol mixture is over 50%, this can be too thick of a mixture for the system. Third, your gas pressure settings may be off, always use a gas regulator just before the unit, and use a manometer to verify your gas settings.

 

 

Q.) What kind of manifold(s) do I need?

 

A.) You should be using a Hydronic Manifold. Hydronic manifolds have sight flow gauges to monitor and adjust the flow for each individual loop. Flow control is essential to any hydronic radiant system. Do not use copper manifold for your radiant heating system. Copper manifolds are for potable water systems and not designed for radiant heating.

 

 

Q.) I'm ready to order a system, where can I buy it?

 

A.) You can order your system on-line at www.menards.com or by visiting a Menards store. For store locations visit https://www.menards.com/main/storeLocator.html

 

 

Q.) What is the difference between 120K Panels and 190K Panels?

 

A.) 120K and 190K are the BTU's these panels are capable of. If your total BTU heat loss is under 120K that you would need a 120 Series Panel. If you are above 120K BTU but below 190K total BTU heat loss, you would need a 190 Series Panels. Each panel series offers 4 types of Zoning Options in both Low Temp and High Temp configurations.

 

Still have a question? Visit our contact page and send us a message.

E-mail: info@hydro-smart.com

PH: 763-331-3066